Another realization I’ve had since coming here is the power of symbols. When you don’t speak the language, symbols can take on a whole new level of usefulness—stop, men’s room, exit, etc. Most symbols seem to be pretty universal now, and we take them for granted. For example, when I see a cross on the top of a spire (a pretty common sight in Korea), I can assume that there is a Christian church beneath it.
One major exception to that is the swastika. Imagine walking down a street in a Seattle neighborhood and seeing a large swastika painted on the side of a building. You would immediately report it as graffiti of the most offensive sort. But not so in Korea.
The symbol itself is actually thousands of years old, showing up in Bronze Age pottery, and the word “swastika” originates in Sanskrit, meaning a lucky or auspicious object. It was incorporated into Hinduism and later Buddhism, where it represents universal harmony and the balance of opposites. Since its adoption by the Nazis in the first half of the twentieth century, it has virtually disappeared in the west except when dredged up by neo-Nazi groups as an emblem of anti-Semitism and white supremacy.
In Korea, however, the symbol retains its original Buddhist meanings and it’s not unusual to see a swastika on Buddhist temples and even on stores or businesses. No matter how often I see it, to these western eyes it’s still very jarring.
You don't know me, but I came across your blog while doing a Google search for 'Daejeon to Incheon bus' because I am trying to find the right bus to go pick up my wife at Incheon later this week. I am an American living temporarily in Daejeon working on a consulting job for KAIST. I have greatly enjoyed your posts - your experiences here are nearly identical to mine and you have beautifully captured the experience of living among these delightful people. Last Saturday I took the subway to the Daejeon station and wandered through the old city street market wearing my Obama 08 t-shirt. Several Koreans shouted "Obama" to me with smiles and thumbs up (I am naively thinking thumbs up means good...). Like you I am once again proud to be an American. So if you see an old guy with a goatee wearing an Obama shirt around Daejeon, that's me. As our Korean friends say, kamsah hamneeda for your posts.
ReplyDelete